Friday, August 6, 2010

June 20, 2010: Oslo



Arriving late in Oslo, I quickly made it to the stop for bus28. The most memorable impression (other than American shops) of the airport is how many languages were being spoken. The Norwegian was easy to pick out as it was the prime language, but others spoke Hindi, French, Dutch, Finish, Swedish, and a smattering of other dialects including the occasional English word. My plane had mainly been comprised of Scandinavian families returning after a holiday abroad. I realized most of the English I was hearing came from words that did not have literal translations - sorta a global Spanglish in Norway.


The bus arrived after a few minutes. Terrified of my pronunciations, I smiled as we put my bags under the bus and I held my piece of paper reading "Nordveien" saying, "I would like to go there". Because I had stopped at the information desk first and discovered the exact price, I had my 210 Krone ready. The bus takes cash or credit (using a credit card in Europe ads a 3% surcharge to each transaction). The bus driver spoke English and he taught me to say it (you drop the "v") as we travelled the hour into town. He also told me a little about Oslo and the neighborhoods that surround her. He mentioned Nordveien is known for its beauty, charm, and elegance.


Outside the airport the land is still lush with farms and gentle rolling hills. The hay bales are covered in white material, making them look like giant pillows. There were few signs of commercial growth, but someday I suspect that will change as more people move toward the city.


At the Nordveien stop, I was greeted by Mrs. Solheim. The Solheim's are long time Norwegian family friends from when Dr. Solheim worked in the Astronomy Dept. at UT when I was a child. We collected my bags and took them to her car parked across the street at the local gas station.


Although the plane was two hours late, pushing my arrival to their house til past noon, we still made plans for the day as we drove back to the house. The neighborhood is elegant with trees ad flowers streaming over the yards.


I learned their house was built by Mrs. Solheims father (and brother) several years ago. It sits on the same property as her brother's house. This house was built with a downstairs apartment complete with bathroom and sitting room. The location was ideal because of growing flowers - the flowers and garden constantly reminded me of my Grandmother's in Ohio.


Lunch was magnificent. I had my first taste of "brown cheese" and reindeer meat while also snacking on a large array of fruit, breads, and crackers. Delightful after a long travel.


Mrs. Solheim gifted me warm socks and a sweater. The green sweater was one she knitted years ago. She took one look at it on me and announced it was another gift because it looked so good on me. I've always loved greens and I'm delighted to say I now own my first Norwegian sweater and it was knitted by a lovely friend.


We decided to see the Viking Museum and the Folk Museum. The Viking Museum has recently opened. Many of the ships inside were used in funerals. I kept thinking how grateful I was the Explorer was going to have covered decks and a dining room while looking at this magnificent vessels that were supposed to stay afloat during storms.


The museum had cases filled with items found during excavation. Some ships had been robbed and the historians have taken guesses on what should have been found. There were many items to admire in the collections. I photographed the dog collar because I thought of my many students who have dogs and the connections we could make in it in the classroom this year.


Norsk Folkemuseum is fabulous. I know there are many things to see in Oslo, but for an idea of who the Norwegian peoples are, the museum gives the history a sense of place. It was like visiting Williamsburg but on a smaller area scale, but with more history. I think the two places should conference together about interactive history and interpretation. The main center hosted a giftshop and exhibit hall, but the real treat was outside on the grounds.


The museum has buildings from the 1200's- present. Everyday living structures used all over the country. The map takes you from one culture region to the next sharing traditional buildings, culture, clothing, music, and food. Many of the buildings had sod with plants/grass growing on the roof. In America, some companies are starting to tout this green movement, where in Norway, people have been doing it since before Columbus.


Tour groups crowded into small structures snapping photos as their guides talked. We walked around them to other sites listening to the docents. All the information is posted in Norweigan with condensed English translations. Mrs. Solheim translated for me what was not posted in English. She also shared stories of her own childhood and visiting relatives in other regions and how their houses/barns were often traditionally made like those found here.








I drank coffee that was very thick and had grounds at the bottom (which I had forgotten about until that last sip where they thickly coated my mouth like a spoonful of fresh dirt) that we ate with a warm lefse (bread) smeared thickly with fresh butter from a c.1650 Grosli Flesberg Numedal farmhouse. Many of the young docents who work at the museum are in college, several have Norwegian-American parents who love both countries and find Texas fascinating. Another home we visited had a young man who plays several musical instruments including an old instrument which sounds like a violin and is played much like a cello.






Leaving the museum, we stopped at the farmers market and picked up fresh mushrooms and strawberries for dinner.


We ate dinner creating a sauce from the fresh mushrooms and strawberries cut and coated with sugar. Delightful meal after a delightful day. We walked around the neighborhood, not noticing the time. Because the sun never fully sets in July, the sky grows warm with shadows, but never a hint of darkness.


Going to sleep that night, I thought about how I was going to be back at the airport in the morning and was my first trip to Oslo really that short with as much as we had accomplished.































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